DJI Phantom 4 PRO Drone Camera Settings

DJI Phantom 4 PRO Drone Camera Settings



Dear fam, this is a video for making you understand the different settings you have on your drone camera (sharpness, contrast and saturation). It’s not about what …

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About the Author: WetalkUAV [Alex Assenmacher]

29 Comments

  1. Hey! I find your videos very useful, thank you. The following happened to me and maybe you can help me: I bought a Phantom 4pro + and I blew it on the door of my house and experienced very low signal (the screen turned green, and I also lost a signal completely, this made me nervous but started to return to home alone) I have a Mavic pro 2 years ago and at the door of my house I can fly it to 800 meters without losing signal. I researched a bit and found it useful to turn off the Wi-Fi on the remote control that comes with the included screen, and use the 2.4Ghz band, this got better, but at 500 meters I lose signal. Is there anything I can do? I'm seriously thinking about returning it and staying with the mavic that gives me more security. THANKS

  2. I'm curious, which Color style you choose? Because before with the P4, I was using the D-LOG, which was having a very flat style and enhance my dynamic range, also, the availble LUTS were speeding up the process.
    But now with the P4P, they enforced the ISO to be locked at 500 ISO when using D-LOG, so when I use my fixed aperture speed(to 1/120, for the best motion blur, as I'm filming in 60fps), all my shots are widely over-exposed.

  3. Ok this is good. I like to take nighttime videos and pictures. Are you going to test this P4P for nighttime filming?? And maybe tell us what settings work best in the city??

  4. With P4P for me -1,-3,-2 works I the best with D-Cinelike profile, in fully manual mode 4k 30fps / 60th sec (cinematic blur good balance) / 100iso / aperture to adjust / Cloudy or sunny white balance or 5000k – 7000k / histogram for reference / FCP with colorfinale to bring it back to life in post (s-curve on exposure, saturation increased, colours balanced if required, slight sharpening added, usually sorts most).
    I've given up with D-Log as results have a far noise with loss of both shadows and highlights detail.

  5. Your point on having settings slightly lower than higher to enable optimum post production capability is so true

    People find this difficult because they look at the screen whilst filming/taking photos and think 'argghh that's so flat, it's going to look like crap!'

    Ignore the screen and try the lower settings, it works

    'Auto' is like playing a lottery. 'Manual' once learned, is like having the winning lottery numbers..every time.
    'You' are in control, not chance', or hoping for success by sheer number of photos/attempts (spray and pray)

    Great tutorial!!

    Remove the distractive background music and it'll be perfect

    Many thanks

  6. Thanks! I still find -1 for sharpness too high and use -2 in the very bright, harsh African sun. How did you find the moire issue on the I2 with X5S you flew?? (better than the P4 P?)

  7. I tried settings like that, but it came out too desaturated and flat/muddy. I could do color optimization in Final Cut Pro, but I don't want to sit and wait for all that rendering. I went back to everything
    Auto, with my new Polar Pro ND/polarizing filters and 60 fps that seems to correct jitter.

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